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 Nissan Titan Forums : Problems / Technical
Subject Topic: Rearend again. Post ReplyPost New Topic
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fox92020
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Posted: Nov 08 2005 at 12:14pm | IP Logged Quote fox92020

I looked through all the owner's manuals for all three model years, plus the nissan web site and see nothing regarding limited slip differentials on either 2WD or 4WD...only active brake limited slip. 4WD has the Electronic Locker on the rear for use as a last resort to free the truck in other than snow or ice surface conditions.

Do all 4WD Titans HAVE to have this E-Lock Diff?

I too thought there was limited slip differentials..or an option for one, but nope, Nissan took the cheaper limited slip route using the existing ABS system.

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Cay Titan
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Posted: Nov 08 2005 at 1:22pm | IP Logged Quote Cay Titan

That's interesting. I too thought that at least the regular 4X4's had a limited slip dif., but Nissan taking the cheaper route makes sense to me. I'm not certain how the ABLS works but I can say that I have experienced the "slip" light flashing if you get too hard on the pedal on a wet road starting off from a stop, and I could swear the truck slows down slightly when the light starts to flash (much like an anti-spin/ traction-control system) so it makes sense to me now what that was all about. I was beginning to think that my truck had the traction control option without the override switch!

BTW: I spoke to DTS today and they said they expect the Tractech (TrueTrac) dif to ship to me on Thursday or Friday latest. I can only imagine that if all Titans currently have open dif's, I believe this sucker is going to be a BIG seller.

I think everyone with a Titan should check this Truetrac dif out. It doesn't even use conventional spider gears but has three rotating worm (pinion) gears and a central gear (per side) that connects to each axle and when one axle starts to free-wheel, all the torque is automatically transferred to the loaded axle. (Hopefully they won't turn out to be the next weakest link!). It doesn't use any clutches or friction material so there is no need for a friction modifier or clutches to replace down the road. AND here's the best part: since it doesn't have "spider" gears, it doesn't have a spider gear pin or a roll pin to hold the same in place. All in all, from the exploded view on the Detroitlocker (TracTech) website, it looks like a pretty sturdy unit.

Now, if only someone was making like a 3.73 gear set and shim kit (for both front and rear) and a speedometer recalibrator, this whole experience might have just have been worth the aggravation! 

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hawaiianbasshea
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Posted: Nov 09 2005 at 12:04am | IP Logged Quote hawaiianbasshea

I'm hoping if enough people complain to someone with authority nissan will be forced to recall and solve the problem. My wife filed a complaint with the national highway traffic safety administration (NHTSA) Office of defects Investigations. http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/. Those that broke a rear end or anything should file a complaint. And keep our fingers crossed that nissan ACTUALLY FIXES IT! Does anyone else have an 05 that broke? Mine allready had the finned diff cover so it probably had synthetic and whatever else their "real fix" is. late email me also if you'd like hawaiianbasshead@yahoo.com

T



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Posted: Nov 09 2005 at 12:06am | IP Logged Quote hawaiianbasshea

my slip light came on when slipping on wet road maybe a week before it broke also...

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hawaiianbasshea
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Posted: Nov 11 2005 at 11:28am | IP Logged Quote hawaiianbasshea

I think everyone should fill out this poll also. just to have more info on why they're breaking http://www.titantalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30979&p age=1&pp=15 later

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HeyDanNiceShot
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Posted: Nov 23 2005 at 4:23pm | IP Logged Quote HeyDanNiceShot

Mine just went, 12,500 miles.

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Cay Titan
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Posted: Nov 23 2005 at 5:46pm | IP Logged Quote Cay Titan

I just wanted to report back that my Titan is fixed (FINALLY!!) and back on the road again!

I received the TrueTrac dif. unit about a week after I ordered it from DTS and installed it over the weekend. It is by all appearances a much sturdier unit than the stock P.O.S. and bolted back in with no major problems. In fact, due to the fact that the axles are pressed in to the dif., it was harder to pull the old unit out than to install the new one, since you have to use a slide hammer to pop the axles out (after taking out the axle retainer bolts). 

As it turns out, it wasn't exactly what I thought had happened. Even though the roll pin had started to come out, the spider gear pin cannot come out of the Electric locking diff assembly, because the pin actually sits inside the ring gear. My old unit had sheared off several teeth on the "spider" gears - the planetary gears (not the gears that the axles slide into). Amazingly, although there was a lot of large metal chunks from the broken gears, the Ring and Pinion somehow survived without getting a scratch! Also, instead of side shims, the Dana diff uses threaded adjusters that screw into axle tubes and that is how the backlash and side-bearing preload is adjusted - which is much easier than playing with shims.

I didn't even have to turn the adjusters to get the right preload or backlash (0.009" - which I determined from measuring the factory gears before disassembly).

All in all, it was a straightforward install, except that the axles actually press into the unit and I had to  lightly tap them (with a heavy hammer) into place as they were pretty tight. This isn't a problem with the Truetrac since it doesn't have spider gears and the axle gears sit against a flat face in the carrier. The thought did occur though, that this is possibly why the stock gears are breaking - when the factory presses the axles into the side gears, which mesh with the planetary gears, it has to put stress on the planetary gears.

I am happy to say that the install was successful and there is no noise or whine at all from the diff or gears, and the thing really locks up both wheels when you get on the throttle - even with one wheel in gravel and the other on tarmac. Definitely worth the money, in my view but something which you shouldn't try yourself unless you have the tools for and experience with installing difs/gears.

BTW: Apparently, the factory says you must install new axle seals every time you pull out the axles, but the seals are behind the axle bearing which is held in by a retainer that you have to drill and split to remove and then press the new one back on with 6992 lbs of force. I didn't have an option here so I reinstalled the axles with the old seals and I'm keeping an eye out for any leaks.

Bottom line - If you want a true "locking" diff - without the clicking that a clutch or locker type gives you - buy the unit and get a competant shop to do the install and I believe you will be pleased with the results.

I'll let you all know if any problems develop.

 

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Cay Titan
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Posted: Nov 23 2005 at 5:49pm | IP Logged Quote Cay Titan

BTW: As for the wires inside the diff.I just snipped the two wires for the locking diff feature and I haven't seen any light or codes as yet. I don't think it will set a code (unless maybe if you arm the switch).

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sonnytimes
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Posted: Nov 24 2005 at 5:19am | IP Logged Quote sonnytimes

GREAT JOB. My wife is so worried about voiding the warranty. It will only void the rearend. Sorry wife I will be doing this to keep from being stuck beside the road again. And this is alot cheeper loosing alot of money on a trade-in. Thank up for your post and information!!!!!!!!!

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titanskidoo
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Posted: Nov 27 2005 at 10:52pm | IP Logged Quote titanskidoo

Is this a problem on all 4x4's or only the ones with the Offroad Package(electronic locking diff.) ??
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